Category

my5thgen 00-03

Category

Member Credit: dafertilizer

Passenger Side Light Overall Wiring

High Beam
Red connector is connected to the 2K harness green wire as shown in the next photo

The blue connector is wired to the blue wire that I put there, it is the power wire from the 2K harness, it powers both the high beam and the HID.

Turn Signal
The right side wire from the Grey plug on headlight, is for the running light, and connects to the brown/red wire in the turn signal plug.

The right side wire of the brown turn signal plug connects to the ground (black wire) on the car turn signal plug, and the left side wire of the brown turn signal plug connects to the green power wire on the car plug.

The middle wire coming out of the the center grey plug is connected to a chassis ground, and the picture got cut off, so you cannot see the left wire of the grey plug is connected to the same blue power wire that the high beam light is connected to here:

The right side wire from the Grey plug on headlight, is for the running light, and connects to the brown/red wire in the turn signal plug.

The right side wire of the brown turn signal plug connects to the ground (black wire) on the car turn signal plug, and the left side wire of the brown turn signal plug connects to the green power wire on the car plug.

my4dsc: 89

Member Credit: TunerMax

I am 98% sure of this set up for ALL years listed, there can be no confusion with my Guide, because it does NOT rely on color codes. The color codes change between years so DO NOT rely on them.
You want to hook up according to TERMINALS. The terminal designations are the same for 2000/2001, and for 2002/2003.

This set up WILL work on Canadian OR US models, DRL or not.

Just follow the terminal designations I’ve provided and you’ll be fine.

Here is the Complete hook up guide:

2000/2001 ————— Headlights —————- 2002/2003

————————-
Terminal 3 R——————————–Terminal 4 R (high beam)
Terminal 3 R——————————–Terminal 1 R (low /HID)
Terminal 1 R——————————–Terminal 5 R
Terminal 3 L——————————–Terminal 4 L
Terminal 3 L——————————–Terminal 1 L
Terminal 2 L——————————–Terminal 2 L (ground supply low beam)
Terminal 2 R——————————–Terminal 2 R (ground supply Low Beam)
Terminal 1 L——————————–Terminal 5 L

———————-Marker/Parking——————

——————————

Terminal 1 (coloured)———————-Terminal 3 (red/yellow[coloured]) Positive
Terminal 2 (black)————————-Terminal 2 (black/yellow[black]) Ground

————————–Signals————————-

—————————–

Terminal 3 L (g/b [coloured] +)—————-Terminal 1 L (g/b [coloured] +)
Terminal 2 L (black -) ————————–Terminal 2 L (black -) 
Terminal 3 R (g/y [coloured] +)—————-Terminal 1 R (g/y [coloured] +
Terminal 2 R (black -) ————————–Terminal 2 R (black -)

These are the relevant power-flow wiring diagrams, for clarification of the above Guide, should you need it:

2000 headlights DRL CANADA:

2000 Headlights USA:

2000 Parking Lamp in Headlight:

2000 Signals in headlamp (same E24/E45 harness as parking):

2003 Headlights DRL Canada:

2003 Headlights USA:

2003 Parking lights in Headlight (same E161/E165 connector as Headlights):

2003 Signal in headlight (different harness from parking lights):

Here is a pic to show you guys what harnesses you need. This is a temporary post until I complete the DIY portion.

The harnesses circled in RED are NOT necessary, they plug into the ballasts, and SHOULD be included with your headlights. If you bought aftermarket headlights with OEM ballasts, you will need them. If you bought aftermarket headlights with aftermarket ballasts, you’ll need just the marker light harness (generic, but OEM is recommended).

Note, you WILL NEED bulbs of course, but they are NOT part of the harness, you can purchase them separately (for the noobs that aren’t sure), marker light type is 168.

This is what you need for harnesses:

2 – HID harnesses
2 – High Beam Harnesses (Bulb type is 9005)
2 – Signal Harnesses (Bulb type is 7440)

my4dsc: 170

Owner: Jiancarlo Smith

Social Media:

 

Year: 2000
Model: Nissan Maxima
Color: Arctic White
Transmission: Automatic to 5-Speed Conversion
Trim: GXE

What motivated you to MOD your Maxima?

My father was in the max game when I was younger. I’ve always had a thing for Maxima’s but what really influenced me were the DCMAX and MDMAX cars in Maryland. Once I decided what route I wanted to go that was all she wrote…..

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • 2000 Nissan Maxima w/ 335WHP 296TQ
  • 5-Speed Wwapped
  • Vortech V2 Supercharger
  • Front Mount Intercooler
  • Blitz BOV
  • Meth Kit
  • 255 Fuel Pump
  • 440cc WRX Injectors
  • Cattman Headers
  • 3” ISIS 240sx Test Pipe
  • Cattman Catback
  • Tuned on eManage Ultimate
  • BC Racing Coilovers
  • Perdue EGR BO
  • SS Clutch Line
  • Short Throw Shifter
  • Southbend Stage 2 Clutch
  • Non-LSD Trans
  • Retrofit Headlights
  • Air brushed AE Cover
  • Full Stillen Lip Kit
  • 15w40 Rotella

my4dsc: 206

Member Credit: Shaquille Keon Jenkins

As I looked for this mod for the FWD HR, I didn’t see anything for them.  Z1 Motorsports had the option for the VHR engine. So I took it alone myself to try it. I started my polishing the the runners in the lower manifold. Then knocked down the lips on the edges of the top of the manifold. I also gasket matched the bottom.

After that I moved on to the upper manifold I knows down all the big lines in the runners and proceeded to match the ports to the lower manifold. I made a template matching the lower manifold ports and just cut the upper manifold to match. I made sure the all my ports where smooth and clean.

 

my4dsc: 102

Member Credit:  beancooker

1. Remove all heat shields (10mm wrench).

2. Remove O2 sensors.

3.Spray penetrating oil on all bolts to be taken out. YOU WILL NEED A PIVOTING ADAPTER FOR YOUR SOCKET WRENCH. Remove 3 bolts on front bank, 3 bolts on rear bank and 2 bolts on cat. 14mm wrench Remove hanger 12mm wrench.

4. When all bolts are removed, take a 2×4 block and hold it to the body of car directly beside stock y-pipe at the rear bank. Take a 2 foot pry bar and put bar on top of stock y-pipe and under 2×4 block. Lift up on pry bar (with a lot of force) and stock y-pipe will pop out.

5.Put crush gaskets on new Y-pipe. Put rear bank up and use 1 bolt to hold rear in place. Front will need some convincing to go in. The flange will rest against the front bank down pipe. Tap (convince) with a hammer until protruding flange pops into down tube.

6. Replace 3 front bolts and 3 rear bolts.
NOTE. There is a shield between the oil pan and the new location of the front O2 sensor. Remove this shield (it won’t be used) and put bolts back in holes.

7. Replace O2 sensors.

See how California emissions have a lot of O2 sensors:

8. Put new cat in place and put gaskets where they should go. Bolt tight. Put new hanger in place.

9. Start car and check for exhaust leaks. If God graces you, as He did me, you’ll have none. Shut off car and remove from jackstands.

10. Pull car outside and start. Let run for about 10 minutes and listen for leaks. (swelling and shrinking of fresh pipes can cause a leak if everything’s not perfect. If you have leaks, fix them.

11. ENJOY!!!

Summary. 
The horsepower gains are totally worth it. I don’t butt dyno any mods, but there are noticable gains. The gains are from 2500RPM and up. I think I lost a little power off the line.

I used a Warpspeed Y-pipe and Magnaflow cat. The Warpspeed Y-pipe is only 60% the cost of a Cattman Y-pipe and are exactly the same. I compared it with a Cattman at a local shop.

If you’ve already replaced your muffler (like me) you’re screwed. There are no “bees in a can” sound, but with a Magnaflow performer XL muffler the throaty V-8 sound goes away. I’m embarrassed/humiliated/ashamed to say, but my poor Max sounds like a Civic with a fart can. It’s loud as hell and has that annoying pop to the sound. However it is faster and that’s what I wanted, so I guess I can deal with it for now.

NOTE:The rear bank precat can be replaced with a straight pipe and you’re fine. If you replace the front bank precat with a straight pipe you’ll throw a code. If you “rod out” the catalyst in the front bank precat, you’ll throw a code. The good news, the precats flow at 450 CFM. The high flow cat I put on the car only flows at 700 CFM so unequal backpressure should not be an issue. Most of the backpressure encountered will be at rear cat, and at 700 CFM, I’ll probably have to do a few more mods to push that much exhaust.

my4dsc: 82

Member Credit: Matt Blehm

Please note that this post is for reference and documentation purposes ONLY. Matt Blehm no longer offers these products or services. Products were available from 2003 to around 2009.

BlehmCo Maxima Big Brake Kits

Front Big Brake Kit #1–2004 Maxima Rotors with 300ZX calipers: This kit fits all 1989 through 2003 models

Front Big Brake Kit #2–2004 Maxima Rotors with OEM 5th generation calipers: This kit only fits 2000 and 2001 models

REAR Big Brake Kit This kit fits all 1995 through 2003 models!

BlehmCo Maxima Front Big Brake Kit

This kit uses easy-to-find, off the shelf ALL Nissan parts! That way the next time you warp a rotor, or wear out the pads at an Auto X, track event, etc…you can just go to the local parts store and pick up replacement parts!  Not many BBKs will allow you to do that!

So what’s in this kit?

  1. NEW OEM 12.6″ 2004 Maxima Rotors (included in the Complete and Basic Kits)
  2. Used/Rebuilt/Remanufactured 300ZX  ALUMINUM  calipers, hardware, pads, shims, etc (included in the Complete Kit).
  3. Caliper relocation bracket
  4. All hardware necessary to install (nuts, bolts, washers, etc.)
  5. Goodridge Stainless Steel brake lines, certified to D.O.T. FMVSS test 106 (many of the brake kits out there don’t have this)

As noted above, the kit is offered with and without the 300ZX calipers for those of you who already have some, or have a good source for them already. If you’d like me to source them for you, then prices are at the bottom of the page.

What are the benefits to this Big Brake Kit?

You guys already know the benefits of a big brake kit on your car, so I’ll point out the original parts of this kit…

It uses a NISSAN rotor that’s meant to fit on this suspension. The offsets are correct so as not to cause huge wheel clearance issues, the hub bore is a perfect fit, and the wheel stud holes are a perfect fit. It also doesn’t rub on the control arms (at least not on 3rd or 5th gens).

As most of you know, the 300ZX calipers have a plethora of pad selections out there–WAY more than the Maxima does because of the performance enthusiast base. You can go with Raybestos, Wagner, Axxis, or comparable pads for the street for a very reasonable price, or you can bump up to Hawk, Performance Friction, Porterfield, Ferodo, EBC, and many other higher performance pads for track days. If you’re in a pinch and need new pads “NOW!”, simply drive to your nearest parts store and pick some up! They’re extremely handy, as opposed to other aftermarket calipers where you usually have to order pads and wait a week for them to come in! These calipers are also designed for street use in that they have dust seals, pad shims to keep road noise to a minimum, easily obtainable rebuild kits, and all the other low maintenance benefits of a caliper designed for years of street use instead of a caliper designed to be rebuilt several times per race season.

The rotors are currently available through OEM sources (dealer), and you can also get blank, slotted, crossdrilled, or slotted and drilled from www.irotors.com. You have all kinds of choices and I will leave that up to you, but I DO NOT recommend crossdrilled rotors due to their tendency to crack. There is enough information in thousands of other places on these issues, so I won’t bother repeating them.

What wheels will these fit under?

I have tried this kit with several wheels so you can get an indication of what will fit…. These kits DO NOT FIT UNDER THE STOCK 17″ Maxima wheels! So far, every aftermarket 17″ and 18″ wheel I have tried will fit, but the 17s get close on spoke clearance–depending on wheel design. I am currently trying to compile a database of all of the wheels that fit these kits to give you an idea, but the best way is to simply measure for yourself. I make no claims to wheel fittment, but for a general guess on if they will fit or not, use these measurements:

Measure 5 1/4″ out from the center of the wheel to one of your spokes. Now measure the distance from the surface of your stock rotors. If you have at least 2 1/2″ of clearance here, then you should be fine with the kit. I can tell you for certain that 300ZX (Z32) wheels will NOT fit without a 1/2″ spacer.

The installed kit:

For those that want to see more up close pics showing caliper clearance around the wheel and spokes, click here

And now for the part you’re really interested in–prices!

Complete Kit: $765 + shipping

This kit is ready to bolt on, with the exception of brake fluid. This kit includes:

  1. Remanufactured 300ZX Calipers
  2. New OEM 2004 Maxima rotors
  3. Custom Stainless Steel Brake lines–these lines are custom made to adapt the 300ZX caliper fittings to the Maxima hard line.
  4. Caliper relocation brackets
  5. All hardware necessary to install the kit

Basic kit: $440 + shipping

Note that this kit does NOT include the required calipers. I can get them if you wish, or you can supply them yourself. This kit includes:

  1. New OEM 2004 Maxima rotors
  2. Custom Stainless Steel Brake lines- These lines are custom made to adapt the 300ZX caliper fittings to the Maxima hard line.
  3. Caliper relocation brackets
  4. All hardware necessary to install the kit

Kit without Rotors: $200 + shipping

This is for those who want to source rotors, calipers, and pads themselves. This kit includes:

  1. Custom Stainless Steel Brake lines–these lines are custom made to adapt the 300ZX caliper fittings to the Maxima hard line.
  2. Caliper relocation brackets
  3. All hardware necessary to install the kit ( again, this kit does not include rotors or calipers )

Want me to source the 300ZX calipers for you? If so, then I can source just about anything you want:

  1. Parts car pulls (cores)–whatever price I can find them. Current prices range from $150 to $250 per set
  2. Cores rebuilt with OEM seal–core price, plus $60 ($30 of which is the rebuild kit). This price does NOT include new hardware. (Contact me if you want new hardware also)
  3. Remanufactured calipers (loaded with generic semi-metallic pads, shims, pins, and hardware)–$350
  4. I can also do powdercoating for $100 per pair on calipers. Please expect a few weeks of lead time if I have to order powder or calipers for you

BlehmCo Maxima Relocation Big Brake Kit

This kit uses easy-to-find, off the shelf ALL Nissan parts! That way the next time you warp a rotor, or wear out the pads at an Auto X, track event, etc…you can just go to the local parts store and pick up replacement parts!  Not many BBKs will allow you to do that!

What is this kit designed for?

This kit is designed for the average “spirited” driver to alleviate the rotor warpage issues that are so common on 5th Gen Maximas. It’s also an extremely affordable way to improve the cosmetics of your car if you’re running larger wheels. The factory brakes just look too small under 18″ and 19″ wheels! The other goal was to make them fit under the factory 17″ wheels–which this kit does with ease!

Not many BBKs will allow get anywhere near the price of this kit, nor will there be easily available replacement parts when it’s time to replace pads or rotors.

I tried this kit with several wheels, so you can get an indication of what will fit: So far, every 17″ and 18″ wheel I have tried will fit, but the 17s get close on rim clearance–depending on wheel design. I make no claims to wheel fittment, but I would say it’s safe to assume that most 17″ wheels will fit, and sure any 18″ wheel will also.

Here are several pictures of the kit, installed on Mike Hill’s gorgeous 2000 Maxima:

And now for the part you’re really interested in–prices!

Ready to Install Kit: $365 + shipping

This includes:

  1. New OEM 2004 Maxima rotors (aftermarket crossdrilled or slotted rotors are now available for an additional $20)
  2. Caliper relocation brackets
  3. All hardware necessary to install the kit (nuts, bolts, & washers)

Complete kit, without rotors: $150 + shipping.

This includes:

  1. Caliper relocation brackets
  2. All hardware necessary to install the kit (nuts, bolts, & washers)

BlehmCo Maxima Big Rear Brake Kit—1995 through 2003 models

This kit uses easy-to-find, off the shelf ALL Nissan parts! That way the next time you warp a rotor, or wear out the pads at an Auto X, track event, etc…you can just go to the local parts store and pick up replacement parts!  Not many BBKs will allow you to do that!

What is it?

Z32 300ZX REAR calipers and rotors built to fit 4th and 5th gen Maximas.

What are the benefits to this Rear Big Brake Kit?

You guys already know the benefits of a big brake kit on your car, so I’ll point out the original parts of this kit…

Many of you that have purchased Big Brake Kits for the front notice a front brake bias problem now. This is safer than having a large rear bias, but it is not the best performing. The rear brakes are tiny and just aren’t up to the task once you’ve upgraded the front brake system. They also look like go kart brakes behind the larger 17″,18″,and 19″ wheels that many owners are using now!

This kit, when paired with most front brake kits, will return the brake bias to within 3% of the factory front/rear bias. In my experiences, this has provided the best overall braking–nearly zero nose dive when you’re on the brakes hard, but you can still brake into corners without locking up the back end.

As most of you know, the 300ZX calipers have a plethora of pad selections out there–WAY more than the Maxima does because of the performance enthusiast base. You can go with Raybestos, Wagner, Axxis, or comparable pads for the street for a very reasonable price, or you can bump up to Hawk, Performance Friction, Porterfield, Ferodo, EBC, and many other higher performance pads for track days. If you’re in a pinch and need new pads “NOW!”, simply drive to your nearest parts store and pick some up! They’re extremely handy, as opposed to other aftermarket calipers where you usually have to order pads and wait weeks for them to come in! These calipers are also designed for street use in that they have dust seals, pad shims to keep road noise to a minimum, easily obtainable rebuild kits, and all the other low maintenance benefits of a caliper designed for years of street use instead of a caliper designed to be rebuilt several times per race season.

You can also purchase rotors at just about any aftermarket or OEM dealer. They have a huge selection of finish, slotting and drilling, and cryo treating options.

How?

For those of you that are familiar with the Z32 brakes, they use an internal drum-type parking brake–as almost all other high performance brake systems do now. This makes caliper maintenance and pad changes extremely quick and easy, but this is also what makes designing a rear brake kit for this car very challenging. I have designed and built a rear drum-type parking brake to fit inside the Z32 rotor, and that’s what this kit is based upon.

Will this work with front Big Brake Kits from another company?

Some of the other kits out there (Stillen, Fastbrakes, Precision, etc) use different piston sizes in their calipers that will affect brake bias considerably. Please check with me before purchasing and be ready to do some measuring of your calipers (or have the part numbers ready for the calipers so I can look them up.) I have talked with Fastbrakes and confirmed the piston sizes on their calipers–their systems will work wonderfully with my rear BBK. I have yet to confirm this with other kits.

If you buy this kit for other front systems, the worst you will have to do is install a $50 brake bias adjuster from Wilwood or Tilton to make this kit run on your car. Simply be very careful about locking up the rear brakes until you have adjusted the bias to fit your system.

How Much does it cost, and what do I need?

I have set the price on my parts so that the entire setup should cost you under $1000 for everything needed to install the kit on the car. I will send you everything needed EXCEPT rear calipers, rotors, and brake fluid, which you will be able to purchase from the sources below and come out under $1000 total.

The parts I will supply are the parking brake assemblies (including custom backing plate and bracket), replacement parking brake cables (your original cables will not work), 6061 aluminum caliper relocation bracket, all fasteners and hardware required for installation, and custom rear DOT approved stainless steel brake lines made to fit this setup.

The parts you need to supply are 300ZX rotors and calipers, pads, and brake fluid. Rotors: Feel free to purchase them from any place you like, but I highly recommend IRotors.com You will need to purchase a pair of REAR rotors from a 1990-1996 300ZX.

Calipers: You can find them quite often on Ebay for under $100 a pair. Any 1990-1996 300ZX TT or N/A rear calipers will work–they’re all the same. If you purchase them used, I highly suggest rebuilding them. You can buy a rebuild kit from Orielly’s Auto Parts, Pep Boys, Autozone, etc for under $10. Many auto parts stores also carry remanufactured calipers for a reasonable cost. In Houston, they are about $100 each without core, $60 each with core.

Now for some Pics!

 

So what’s the total price from BlehmCo?

You will send me $720 plus shipping for the parts you need from me. Shipping usually runs about $20 for anyone in the main 48 states. CA, AK, and HI are more, but I am more than happy to ship worlwide! You will still need to purchase rotors, calipers, pads, and fluid. This should run you less than $250, which puts you at just under $1000 for the entire rear brake kit!

I can also do powdercoating for $100 per pair on calipers. Please expect a few weeks of lead time if I have to order powder or calipers for you.

 

my4dsc: 479

Member Credit: Matt Blehm

Please note that this post is for reference and documentation purposes ONLY. Matt Blehm no longer offers these products or services. Products were available from 2003 to around 2009.

Lower Tie Bar: Now for 89-2003 Maxima, and B14 200SX/Sentra!

This part is designed to tie the front suspension together to provide sharper steering response and better handling overall.

These parts are powdercoated black. If you would like other colors, I can do it, but buyer will be responsible for additional charges.

Stage I

This is a bar that ties together the bolts on the front lower control arm gussets, providing sharper steering response and less chassis flex in corners. Handling improvements are very similar to installing a strut tower brace, which you can also add on the top of the suspension to tie the front end together really well!

The only drawback is that you lose a bit of ground clearance- but since it sits between the front wheels, the only time you might have a problem is when driving over extremely uneven surfaces. I have had the Stage II bar (see below) on my car for six months now and have only scraped it three times- all of which could have been prevented had I been paying more attention while going over extremely rough roads.

The price for the Stage I lower tie bar is $65, plus shipping- a VERY worthwhile and affordable mod!

Stage II

This one is a bit more complex. It bolts onto an additional frame mount behind the control arms to provide more strength and reduce chassis flex even more. You don’t lose any more ground clearance, but you do gain several more steps up the ladder in the handling department.

For 3rd gens, this requires a small amount of grinding on the left side gusset to fit, but does not alter or weaken the structure of the car at all–you simply have to enlarge one hole by about 2mm for one of the mounting points to fit properly. For 4th and 5th gens, this is a simple 15 minute install (assuming you have air tools and a jack).

Current fittments WILL Clear all aftermarket Y-pipes (Warpspeed Performance, Cattman, Stillen), but will NOT clear the Cattman headers on the 4th gen. I’m working with a customer in redesigning the 4th gen bar so that it will fit. If you have these headers or plan to purchase them, stay tuned and I’ll have a design that fits.

Price on the Stage II Lower Tie Bar is $175, plus shipping.

4th Gen Stage II Lower Tie Bar

5th Gen Stage II Lower Tie Bar

B14 Stage II Lower Tie Bar

Rear Strut Tower Brace: For 89-94 Maxima

Exactly what it says it is!! You’ve seen them on 4th gens, you’ve seen them on Sentras, you’ve seen them on every car BUT a 3rd gen! I argued for years that they wouldn’t do anything, but I decided to build one not long ago, and boy was I wrong!!

Pricing: $100 each, plus shipping. (This isn’t your $29 ebay fstb!!)

Rear Parallel Link Replacement Kit: For 89-94 Maxima

Another crazy mod for your 3rd Gen!

This is a mod only for the hardcore guys out there. It’s rough and it’s tough, and it’ll (almost) hang with a Miata in the twisties!! These do add some road noise over gravel roads at low speeds, but the ride quality doesn’t change between these and stock bushings. I notice no additional highway noise, and the ride is MUCH smoother than with my worn bushings in the rear.

This kit also allows you to adjust Camber AND Caster in the back!

This kit replaces both rear parallel links and radius rods on both sides, for a total of 6 bars, 12 Heim joints, and all the bushings you’ll need to install them properly.

I can get the tubes in zinc plated (pictured), or black. I can powdercoat them just about any color you want as well, so contact me if you’d like some other colors.

This kit is priced at a VERY reasonable $375 for the set. Again, the second picture shows just one side, but you do get both. The joints used in this kit are very high quality– they have teflon lining injected into them so they should never need lubricating and will never rattle like the cheap ones.

Okay, so what is it exactly? I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves:

Rear Sway Bar Links:

89-94 Maxima

Tired of your rear sway bar links breaking, clanking, and rattling? Here’s the solution! These are made from all high-strength materials. 1/2″ aluminum bottom plate, grade 8 mounting hardware, and the heim joint on top is permanently lubed with kevlar/teflon injected into the joint. Guaranteed not to break! Overkill to say the least, but you don’t want these to break AGAIN, do you?

Price for the Maxima kit is $45 + shipping–includes all hardware pictured for both sides of the car.

1st Generation Altima

I have some Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushings on the way as well and will be selling these as complete front and rear kit when they come in. Final pricing will be determined later.

my4dsc: 91

Owner: Ryan Mahadeo

Social Media:

Year: 2003
Model: Maxima
Color: Chrome Silver Metallic (KY0)
Transmission: Automatic
Trim: GLE

What motivated you to MOD your Maxima?

When I first got the car I hated it, it was basic and looked like an old mans car. When I started seeing other people with hooked up Maxima’s I wanted to do the same, but I wanted to do something different.

For the past two years, I saved up to modify my Maxima. But it wasn’t enough. I wanted something more, so I turned it into a VIP show car which is still in progress. People use tell me it a waste of time and money but I never listened to them. I always blocked all of the negative thoughts and continued turning my car into a VIP car. Never let someone or yourself destroy what you believe in! Always cherish the things in front of you and keep dreaming big. – Ryan Mahadeo

 

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • Gutted Intake Manifold
  • OBX Headers & Y-Pipe
  • Custom Straight Pipe Exhaust (Done by Congress)
  • Injen Cold Air Intake
  • Maxxtuning Lip
  • 20th Anniversary AE Rear Lip
  • 20th Anniversary Side Skirts
  • Fresh Paint Job (Done by Speedway Autobody)
  • Tien Advance Street Coilovers
  • 19″ VIP Rare Riverside Trafficstar DTX 3 Piece Wheels
  • Pioneer Double Din Radio
  • Black Suede Pillars
  • Junction Produce Mission VIP Fusa, Kintuna, Pillows
  • 4 6/12 Beyma Pro Speaker
  • 15 inch Mojo Sub
  • 2 Tar amp

my4dsc: 307

Member Credit: Stormzusmc

’02 Nissan Maxima installation of a Transgo “Reprogramming Kit” and an Edge Racing torque converter. First, I’m working on the replacement trans, which I have mounted to an engine stand. This “kit” can be installed with the trans still in the vehicle, but it’ll be quite a challenge.

If you can’t remember where nuts & bolts go or if you’re not a detail oriented person, don’t attempt this job yourself. When dealing with automatic transmissions, expect an intricate install. Nothing is as easy as it looks.

Here’s what I’m installing – Transgo Reprogramming Kit:

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Remove the trans oil pan & trans oil filter. If you notice, the magnets are fairly clean, not bad for a used trans.

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Remove trans valve body.

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As you can see, the transmission is flipped upside down for ease of working on the internals. If you’re working with this installed in the vehicle, there’s a spring that will fall out. Not only this, there are 4 rubber o-rings that could possible fall out too.

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Disassembly of the valve body, don’t lose those ball-bearings!

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Modifications:

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Replacing external oil seals:

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Edge Racing Torque Converter Installed:

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Removal of transaxle:

Remove air box, battery, starter, and unplug trans harness:

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Remove lower cross member, support trans & engine, remove torque converter bolts:

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Transgo Manual

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Additional Information (Credit to: Max King)

Considering before the install I was a complete newb to transmissions, never ever went further then removing the pan and doing a drain/fill, the install went great!It took me 2 days working on and off about a total of 8 hrs if you count everything. I really took my time since I have never touched the internals of the trans before, I removed section by section slowly and took pics before removing and put the bolts in labeled zip locks so putting back together was a breeze. I should have made a write up but wasn’t thinking about it since the directions with the kit cover 90% of it. The only tough part about it, since the trans was installed in the car, was the last part. Removing/installing the cover on the cylinder looking thingy that sits on top of trans was a PITA, I ended up bending the trans dipstick housing back and using several different wrenches to get off/on the bolts. Other then that putting the valve body back in under the car on your back is also a bit of a pain.

Tips for anyone doing the install. If you’re like me and this is all new to you TAKE YOUR TIME. I worked on the valve body in a large box that a lawnmower was purchased in. Once I would remove a set of bolts I would take a pic, place them in a labeled bag, and keep notes for myself so there wouldn’t be any guessing later. There is one or two steps in the instructions that get confusing since they don’t mention if they want you to reuse something or use a new one they supplied but if you reread it enough and put two and two together its easily figured out. Try to use everything supplied. You will end up with a few extra little balls but I came to the conclusion they were replacements in case you lost a checkball since they are the exact same size as them. I don’t think their were any extra springs but there may have been one since there is one part of the steps that you either do or don’t based on the plates separating the different parts of the vb. I recommend reading the instructions fully first since some things don’t become clear at first until later, also there is some useful information stated towards the back of the instructions so reading it fully you get a better understanding.

Now for the review! At first my car was doing a stall around 1200 rpm then shooting off roasting all of first and half of second :gotme: it went away after a few minutes of driving, I don’t have any idea if that’s normal at first or not but if you install the kit and it happens I guess don’t be alarmed since it happened to me as well. The shifts are very harsh and precise. I have no more flare at all at WOT or even just regularly driving for that matter. Depending on how fast you accelerate first to second can be harsh it isn’t all that bad since its easy to get used to (at least for me) but it is noticeable. The shifts do depend on the throttle position, so I would say anything under 50% throttle and it doesn’t shift as hard but this may not be entirely true. Transgo does claim that the kit is designed to shift harder at open throttle. I love how it shifts I feel like I’m not losing power since its shifting right away with no flare or lag at all. I can roast pretty much all of first and even at WOT when I don’t roast first, coming off of a nice smooth acceleration instead of punching it I can still chirp in second. The torque feels amazing I think with some ES mounts and a torque link those harsh shifts won’t be felt as much. When I say harsh its not a slam into gear harsh, its more of a thud from movement harsh. Its like high rpm shifts with bad motor mounts. Like stormz had mentioned in his review someone else would think your trans is going bad.

Do I recommend this kit? Well in my case this isn’t my daily anymore and I have another car to drive with the wife and son so I’m not too concerned with the harshness and it doesn’t bother me so yes. But if you can’t deal with the harshness then I guess this is not for you. But I will tell you one thing the benefits from this kit, the shifts>>>the harshness. I’ll take the harshness just to have the wonderful shifts. I will update later when I’m able to drive it some more.

BTW I would like to add if you do install this kit to get lots of ATF since I put in 5 qts after the install and after driving for a short period checked it and I was basically dry and had to go back and buy some more. In total I added 8 qts and it doesn’t surprise me since tons of fluid came out of the vb while taking it apart.

my4dsc: 377