Member Credit: Froggmann
Backing out of your driveway you notice a good sized-oil spot from the passenger side of your car. You get out to investigate. It’s engine oil and seems to be a lot of it. You go start investigating, oil pan looks ok. Front oil seal looks ok, then you spot it it’s coming from behind the thing the oil filter is connected to. You have just discovered the reason behind Nissan Service Bulletin NTB06-02:
Why would you want to eliminate it? In cooler environments, I wouldn’t. Here in So Cal it doesn’t get cool enough to necessitate it. Not to mention I don’t see how having 200* F coolant going around the base of the oil filter actually cools anything.
So lets start with the repair…
Step 1 – Drain the oil out of your engine. You will need a 14MM socket.
Step 2 – Remove the oil filter. You will need an oil filter wrench or channel-lock pliers.
Step 3 – You will need to remove the Center bolt using a 22MM or 7/8″ deep socket. After that the cooler/warmer will fall forward. Remove the two 12MM bolts holding the forward coolant line to the block. This will give you enough wiggle room to get the old O-ring off and the new one on.
If you are going to remove the cooler/warmer completely skip to the next post.
Step 4 – Remove the old O-ring, then clean the inner channel with a rag then insert the new O-ring.
Step 5 – Re-attach the cooler to the block ensuring the clocking notch is correct.
Tighten the center bolt to 33-39 Ft pounds of torque. Then continue with your normal oil change steps.
To remove the Cooler/Warmer completely first attain these things:
12MM Allen socket or wrench.
Oil filter nipple from a 3.0L VQ. If you don’t have any junkyards nearby you can just order it, it’s Nissan part number 15213-31U00.
About 1.5 feet of 1/2″ (13MM) heater hose. Alternately, you could take your water pipes in to a welder to have the nipples removed but that’s not my cup of tea.
Starting off from here:
Get your VQ30 oil filter nipple:
and attach it to the engine block. Tighten it to 33-39 Ft Lbs. of torque. At this point you can install your new oil filter.
At this point if you are due for a coolant flush, drain your coolant. If not we can work around that.
Remove the coolant line going towards the front of the car first, then pinch the hose over on itself and hold it in place with a pair of vice grips. Coolant will be pouring out so do this quickly.
Attach your 1/2″ rubber hose to the hardline and secure with a hose clamp.
Grab your other hose clamp and put it over the hose. You will thank me later for this.
Detach the rear coolant line and attach your 1/2″ hose and secure with the hose clamp. Again do this quickly if you are not flushing your coolant.
Re-attach the 2 bolts holding the front coolant line and torque then to 33-39 Ft. Lbs of torque.
Continue with your oil change and top off your coolant. Idle your car and look for leaks, if none are found go and relax with your beverage of choice: