my5thgen 00-03


Member Credit: Froggmann

Backing out of your driveway you notice a good sized-oil spot from the passenger side of your car. You get out to investigate. It’s engine oil and seems to be a lot of it. You go start investigating, oil pan looks ok. Front oil seal looks ok, then you spot it it’s coming from behind the thing the oil filter is connected to. You have just discovered the reason behind Nissan Service Bulletin NTB06-02:

Why would you want to eliminate it? In cooler environments, I wouldn’t. Here in So Cal it doesn’t get cool enough to necessitate it. Not to mention I don’t see how having 200* F coolant going around the base of the oil filter actually cools anything.

So lets start with the repair…

Step 1 – Drain the oil out of your engine. You will need a 14MM socket.

Step 2 – Remove the oil filter. You will need an oil filter wrench or channel-lock pliers.

Click the image to open in full size.

Step 3 – You will need to remove the Center bolt using a 22MM or 7/8″ deep socket. After that the cooler/warmer will fall forward. Remove the two 12MM bolts holding the forward coolant line to the block. This will give you enough wiggle room to get the old O-ring off and the new one on.

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If you are going to remove the cooler/warmer completely skip to the next post.

Step 4 – Remove the old O-ring, then clean the inner channel with a rag then insert the new O-ring.

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Step 5 – Re-attach the cooler to the block ensuring the clocking notch is correct.

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Tighten the center bolt to 33-39 Ft pounds of torque. Then continue with your normal oil change steps.

To remove the Cooler/Warmer completely first attain these things:

12MM Allen socket or wrench.
Oil filter nipple from a 3.0L VQ. If you don’t have any junkyards nearby you can just order it, it’s Nissan part number 15213-31U00.

About 1.5 feet of 1/2″ (13MM) heater hose. Alternately, you could take your water pipes in to a welder to have the nipples removed but that’s not my cup of tea.

Starting off from here:

Click the image to open in full size.

Get your VQ30 oil filter nipple:

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and attach it to the engine block. Tighten it to 33-39 Ft Lbs. of torque. At this point you can install your new oil filter.

Click the image to open in full size.

At this point if you are due for a coolant flush, drain your coolant. If not we can work around that.

Remove the coolant line going towards the front of the car first, then pinch the hose over on itself and hold it in place with a pair of vice grips. Coolant will be pouring out so do this quickly.

Attach your 1/2″ rubber hose to the hardline and secure with a hose clamp.

Grab your other hose clamp and put it over the hose. You will thank me later for this.

Detach the rear coolant line and attach your 1/2″ hose and secure with the hose clamp. Again do this quickly if you are not flushing your coolant.

Re-attach the 2 bolts holding the front coolant line and torque then to 33-39 Ft. Lbs of torque.

Continue with your oil change and top off your coolant. Idle your car and look for leaks, if none are found go and relax with your beverage of choice:

Click the image to open in full size.

my4dsc: 34


This applies to the 2000-2001 5thgens.

Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied. Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.

Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
Engine coolant temperature: 70 – 100 C (158 – 212 F)
Park/neutral position (PNP) switch: ON (Shifter in Park or Neutral)
Electric load switch: OFF (Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger)
Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
Vehicle speed: Stopped
Transmission: Warmed-up (Drive vehicle for 10 minutes.)


1 Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 1 second.

2 Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.

3 Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.

4 Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order.

5 Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.

6 Start the engine and let it idle for at least 30 seconds.

7 Disconnect throttle position sensor harness connector (brown), then reconnect it within 5 seconds.
Click the image to open in full size.

8 Wait 20 seconds.

9 Make sure that idle speed is within specifications. If not, the result will be incomplete. In this case, find the cause of the problem by referring to the NOTE below.

10 Rev up the engine two or three times. Make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within specifications.

Idle speed = 700 ± 50 rpm (in P or N position)

my4dsc: 30


Member Credit: Greg

1.I bought the Hayden model 404 from Pep Boys for $49.99 plus tax. There were other smaller models, but I figured I would get the largest one practical. The 404 is considered “Heavy Duty” and is 7.5 inches tall by 15.5 inches wide, by 0.75 inches thick. It is supposed to lower your transmission fluid temperature by 70 degrees Farenheit. I would not recommend getting a cooler any larger than the 404, as it will be too big and difficult to install. In fact, the 403 would probably have been easier, as it is the same height, but 2.5 inches shorter.

Click the image to open in full size.

2.Here is everything that came in the kit. I bought an extra 4 feet of transmission cooler hose (not pictured) to use as the return line back to the transmission. The 4 feet of hose that comes with the cooler is not enough, since you will have to replace the stock transmission return line entirely. When you get the extra hose, DO NOT get fuel line, it is not the same. Ask specifically for transmission fluid hose!

Click the image to open in full size.

3.The picture below shows the A/C condenser before installation of the cooler. For optimal cooling effect the auxiliary transmission cooler should be mounted in front of the A/C condenser.

4.The cooler should be installed in “series” with the stock tranny cooler. To do this you have to locate the fluid return line. On the Maxima this is the upper line (without the “banjo” bolt). The two pictures below show the location of the transmission fluid lines before installation.

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

5.It is necessary to remove the Driver’s Side Engine Undercover to expose the transmission fluid return line. The undercover is held in place with 7 bolts and one pop-on clip. I sacrificed the pop-on clip when I removed it. Casualty of tinkering with your car.

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6.Remove the two nuts which hold the radiator to the car frame. You need to be able to tilt the radiator back so there is room to work.

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7.I traced out a template for the cooler on a piece of plain folder paper. The purpose of this was simply so I could line everything up and get an idea of how things were going to fit, how the hoses would hang and where, etc., before committing. It was also helpful in aligning the 4 holes where the zip ties would pass through the A/C condenser.

Click the image to open in full size.

8.The next step is to take each 4-foot piece of transmission hose and secure it with the clamps provided to the cooler. Then carefully slide the cooler in place in front of the A/C condenser. You can slide it in from the top or bottom, it really doesn’t matter – just be very careful not to bend or damage the fins on the cooler or on the car’s radiator. They are very fragile and will bend easily.

Click the image to open in full size.

9. My personal recommendation is to insert the 4 zip ties through the cooler and the condenser from the grill side in towards the motor. It is much easier to do it this way and you will have a lot more room to insert the plastic cover caps in-between the condenser and the radiator than between the condenser and the grill. Trust me on this. Make sure to secure the 4 foam pads in between the cooler and the condenser before you insert the zip ties all the way through. This part takes a little bit of coordination, and a second hand wouldn’t hurt either.

Click the image to open in full size.

10. Once the cooler is secured properly to the condenser the next step is to remove the stock transmission fluid return line. The line is pre-bent and specialized for the stock setup and cannot be reused. The line is held in place at both ends by simple pressure clamps. I put a pan under the return line to catch about an ounce of transmission fluid which leaked out of the hose.

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

11. Take one of the lines from the Hayden cooler and cut it to length. Run this line to the radiator output port and secure with clamp provided. Make sure that the line is not bent or kinked and that it is away from the transmission pan. I bought some 3/4-inch (19 mm) heater hose from NAPA and wrapped it around certain parts of the hoses that I thought might rub or chafe. It is an added protection and a good idea, in my opinion. Secure the second line from the cooler back to the top of the transmission. I secured all of the lines with wire ties to ensure that they would not droop or move around too much.

Click the image to open in full size.

12.Here is a different view of how the hoses are routed from the cooler to the transmission.

Click the image to open in full size.

13.I used a heavy duty zip tie to hold up the top line and keep it from sagging. I later changed the zip tie to black for looks.Click the image to open in full size.

14.The transmission cooler is barely visible through the front grill and is in an excellent location to receive high airflow. The cooler will help out if you do a lot of stop and go driving or “spirited” driving that tends to heat up a transmission. In any case, it certainly won’t hurt anything, and is fun for about a 3 hour job. After driving the car around for a day I had to add about a half quart of ATF to make up for the added volume the cooler provides.

my4dsc: 85


Member Credit: The Wizard

How to Re-clock your Supercharger
Why? So that one of the bends of the 2.5″ charge pipe can be eliminated (the retarded chamfered elbow) and ease of configuration for those who want to upgrade to a 3″ charge pipe system. Re-clocking the blower also gets the charge pipe away from the back of the headlight and allows a lot more room for those who do headlight retrofits. (My chamfered elbow was rubbing my OEM headlight bulb connection and causing it to flicker on and off)

Keep in mind that if you’re keeping the 2.5″ charge pipe that originally was provided in the Stillen kit, then you’ll have to cut off a portion at the end of the charge pipe (at the second bend near the SC mounting plate) and get a new silicone 90 degree coupler (2.75″ to 2.5″) to reconfigure the system. If you’re upgrading to a 3″ charge pipe, then you’ll have to buy quit a bit more including: piping/couplers/your choice of BOV, Maf adapter etc.

Where? In your car, blower fully installed and mounted to the engine. It’s a common misconception that the blower must be removed from the car in order to re-clock the blower. You do not have to take the blower off the car, unless you run into the problem stated in the disclaimer below. This probably goes without saying, but re-clocking the blower while installed in the car allows you to fine tune and find the perfect angle in such a way that the 90 degree silicone elbow is situated just right and allows proper hood clearance. If the blower was removed from the car, then you’ll be taking the trial and error approach and burning a lot of time taking the blower/plate on and off/re-clocking the blower in order to find the perfect angle.

Here’s how the blower looks as Stillen/Vortech intended (2.5″ charge pipe, two bends at/near blower outlet)

Click the image to open in full size.

Here’s how the blower looks re-clocked (3″ charge pipe, one 90 degree bend)

Click the image to open in full size.

Here’s how to re-clock (rotate) your blower

Pic 1
Click the image to open in full size.

Pic 2
Click the image to open in full size.

Look near the oil feed fitting and you’ll see a hold down plate and two allen screws. (See Pic 2) Keep in mind, there is still one more hold down plate and two screws to locate. See pic 1 for both plates (outlined in red) and all 4 screws (noted in green). Although the blower is installed in the car and space is limited, you should have no problem getting to the plates and allen screws. The hold down plate and screws holds the scroll to the blower itself. Loosen the screws quit a bit until you are able to re-clock (rotate) the blower’s outlet. You can remove the screws and hold down plates if you find it easier or the scroll isn’t rotating freely. Now re-clock the blower’s outlet to the desired position. Tighten the allen screws to prevent any further rotation and snug things back up the way they were. If you removed the 4 allen screws and 2 plates, reinstall them at this time.

* Some people have reported that they have 5 screws and 3 hold down plates. If you can’t re-clock the scroll after undoing/removing the 4 screws and 2 hold down plates as stated above, then look for a fifth screw and small hold down plate. This small hold down plate is only slightly bigger than the screw head itself. This 5th screw and small plate is noted in blue in Picture #1.

Disclaimer: Some people have it easier than others. Some discover that one of the plates is easily accessible (12 o’clock position) while the other is impossible to get to (6 o’clock position) while the blower is installed in the car. If this is the case, you may have to remove/uninstall your blower from your Maxima to gain accessibility to the hidden plate and screws. If so, feel free to relocate the plate and screws to a more accessible location anywhere around the perimeter of the scroll. Just keep in mind, that wherever you install one plate, the other plate should be on the opposite side of the scroll. When I re-clocked my blower, I had it easy. Both of my plates and 4 screws were easily accessible (3 o’clock and 9 o’clock position) [Positions are based on the individual standing at the passenger side of the car and looking at the blower]

my4dsc: 30


Member Credit: Scrambler

My SES light came on the other day and the code is indicating O2 sensor Bank 1, Sensor 1. That is the bank that is on the back side of the engine, against the firewall. Sensor 1 is the sensor in the exhaust manifold before the cat.

BTW… I priced this sensor at the various auto parts dealers and found the following:

Dealership – $189.24
Autozone – $174.99
Advance – $109.99
Napa – $77.99

Obviously I was looking for the exact replacement and not a universal fit that I was going to have to splice wires on. Autozone, Advance and Napa all listed the exact same Bosch part number (17264) but their prices varied by nearly $100!

I ordered mine from Napa but after a week they said they were out of stock and so was the manufacturer (Bosch). Advance Auto and Autozone both gave me the same information. Sadly, I had to break down and purchase the sensor from the stealership.

My SES light came on and the code indicated Bank 1, Sensor 1. Bank 1 is the side of the engine closest to the firewall. Bank 2 is on the front, closest to the radiator.

Sensor 1 is in the exhaust manifold, before the cat. Sensor 2 would be after the cat.

To do the job, you will need a few simple hand tools including a ratchet with extensions, 10mm, 12mm and 14mm sockets, a standard screwdriver, needlenose pliers, and an O2 sensor socket. I used a crowsfoot design O2 sensor socket because a straight O2 socket was not deep enough. If you have a strut tower bar like I have, you will need an allen wrench and 14mm wrench to remove that.

Again, as I stated, my bad sensor was in the bank 1 exhaust manifold. In order to gain access, I had to remove the hood, strut tower bar, windshield wiper arms, plastic cowl panel and metal cowl panel.

When removing the hood, have someone assist you in lifting it off. It is a good idea to mark your hinges with a paint pen so you can align the hood properly when reinstalling it.

After removing the hood, pull the plastic caps from the wiper arm mounts. Underneath, there will be a nut you need to remove. After removing the nut, the arms will not just slip off. I used a small crowbar to pull up on the wiper arm while I tapped the bolt with a hammer.

The plastic cowl panel is held in place with 4 plastic fasteners that just push in place. To remove them, I pried up the edge with a screwdriver and used a pair of needlenose pliers to pull them out. Do this carefully or you may break the fasteners off.


Once you get the 4 fasteners out, lift gently on the plastic cowl panel. There are several white clips underneath that will pop out if you lift carefully. After you get it loose, you can lay it on the front of the engine. There is no need to disconnect the windshield washer lines.

Under the plastic cowl panel there is a metal cowl panel that is held in place by twelve, 10mm bolts. Remove the bolts and lift out the panel.

After the metal cowl panel is removed, you will have access to the O2 sensor.

Disconnect the connector first. To do this, you will need to remove the grey locking tab, then pull the connector apart. The portion that is attached to the sensor lead is stuck on a mounting tab.

After you have disconnected the wire, use an O2 socket to remove the sensor from the exhaust manifold.

When you have removed the old sensor, reverse the process for installation.

Important notes:

1. If your new O2 sensor did not come with anti-seize on the threads, put some on. Otherwise, you will never get it out later.

2. DO NOT DROP THE NEW SENSOR! If you do, you will damage it and you will have to replace it.

3. To clear the SES light, disconnect the battery for 20-30 minutes to reset the ECU. Or, you can take it to Autozone or some other parts dealer and they will clear it for you.

4. For all you flamers that want to tell me that my engine compartment is dirty, don’t worry, I detailed it when I was done.

I hope this helps. If nothing else, you can see that you can do this yourself without having to pay the dealer $85.00 per hour to do the job for you.

my4dsc: 18


Member Credit: DeusExMaxima

The procedure for removing the OEM intake and replacing it with the Kinetix was fairly straightforward. With basic hand tools, I did the job at a casual pace in under 2 hours.

Tools Needed:
Allen wrench (supplied with manifold)
10mm, 12mm, and 14mm wrenches and sockets
Flat blade screw driver

1. Disconnect battery and remove engine cover with allen wrench

2. Remove attachments on manifold, including this canister shown here:

3. Remove air intake

4. Remove throttle body with 4 allen bolts. Now is the time to clean the throttle body.

In this picture, the disconnected hose is a vacuum hose. But the hose below, that is still connected, with the black fitting is a COOLANT hose. Be careful when remove this hose as coolant leaks out. You can also see the EGR hose which has black braided material, which is right below the two vacuum hoses near the left center of the picture.

5. The bolts at the back of the manifold are now accessible . .. barely. They are hard to get to, and you have to have a good touch. I believe they are 12mm, and there are two of them.

6. Once all hoses and front brackets are removed, and the rear middle bracket is disconnected, the EGR tubing must come off. Its very stiff and hard to take off.

7. Now is the time to undo the manifold nuts and bolts. Do it in a cross pattern and start it a 1/4 turn at a time until they are loose so you don’t warp anything. There is one more bracket to remove, but its easier to remove it when the manifold is raised a bit.

8. The bracket on the passenger rear side of the manifold is very hard to remove because of the lack of space and the angle. Its a 10mm bolt head. Here is a pic of the green connectors that attach to it:

The manifold should come clear from the car.


1. Unscrew the plug from passenger side of manifold. Screw in the fitting from the EGR hose; only the fitting, NOT the hose yet. Make sure its positioned in line where the hose will eventually connect.

2. Lay the hose across, behind the lower manifold. Connect the braided EGR hose to the OEM stiff pipe. I reused the gasket but you should get a new one.

3. Install manifold. Tighten in cross pattern so nothing warps.

4. Connect the EGR braided hose to the fitting in the manifold.

5. The coolant hoses need to be joined together. Identify the coolant hoses (green fluid dripping out) and join them together with this fitting:

After its connected, it should look like this:

6. Connect hoses, the throttle body and air intake. This should be fairly obvious if you’re careful when you disconnected things.

7. This is the end result:



Other Photos of Install:




my4dsc: 56


Owner: Marvin Ramos

Social Media:


Year: 2002
Model: Maxima
Color: Beige  (EV0)
Trim: SE

My Maxima started out as a daily until I completed my 4th. Wheels and suspension was the plan. Ordered Coilovers same night that I got the car. Ordered wheels next day.

After installing I started doing other little things; rewired fogs, installed HIDs, installed tint, purchased short throw and so forth. By this time I already knew I was in trouble. I could already see how much potential they have, and I was hooked.

Over a year and a half of owning my Maxima, it had gone from completely stock to my pride and joy.

Full Mod List / Specs:

– Full black interior swap including pillars, headliner and carpet
– Full LED interior by Albert Jandura
– Nardi Steering wheel with NRG quick release
– Shortened shifter
– AE pedals

– 10 Rockford Fosgate Punch for Highs & Mids
– Single 10″ Rockford Fosgate Punch Subwoofer
– Rockford Fosgate T400-4 & T600-4 for Highs & Mids
– Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bd for Subwoofer
– Dynamat on doors, rear deck, trunk and roof
– Optima Yellowtops relocated to trunk

– All rust removed and repaired
– Custom rear quarter panels widened by Ultimate Auto Salon
– Full HID front conversion
– Fogs rewired to run independently
– Full rear LED & Side markers
– White underglow. On when unlocked or driver door is opened. Off when locked or ignition is turned on. Independent switch to run at all times also.
– Tint all around including windshield and sunroof by Precision Window Tinting
– Stillen front lip
– Weathertech visors
– Black and clear taillights
– Rear badges replaced with anniversary badges.

Wheels & Tires
– Nismo 370z OEM wheels.
19×9.5 et40 225/35R19
19×10.5 et23 245/35R19
– Replaced by ADV.1 ADV10 wheels
19×9.5 et5 225/35R19
19×10.5 et0 245/35R19

– Ksport air struts
– D2 Front camber plates
– Accuair Switchspeed management
– Bagriders Digigauge
– All new front suspension components
– Cattman front strut bar
– Stillen rear strut bar
– Rear QT link

Under Hood
– CGR 4in intake powdercoated candy teal
– CGR upper and lower intake manifold powdercoated candy teal
– NWP Intake and Throttle body spacers
– NWP Big bore throttle body
– GTR Injectors
– Ralco Lightweight pulley
– More to come!

– CGR Front brackets with Evo front calipers painted candy teal
– Custom Rear brackets with SRT8 rear calipers painted candy teal
– Stainless steel brake lines

– SE-R headers made to fit by Thomas Perdue
– Thomas Perdue stainless steel y-pipe
– Cattman 3in catback
– Innovate Motorsports DLG-1

my4dsc: 525


Owner: Namal Rauf

Social Media:


Year: 2003
Model: Nissan Maxima
Color: Majestic Blue Pearl (BW9)
Trim: SE

Bought the Maxima for $400. I started learning about them and reading up on them and found out the aftermarket support was decent. Not like Honda’s but it was supportive enough to be able to build it. Finding led me in to reading on mods and how-to’s. That’s when I started finding parts and decided to build the car. Being in high school I did as much as I could do and built it exactly how I wanted. I ended up with what I have now and I’m very proud of it.

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • Wilwood Big Brake Kit (2pc rotors)
  • Stillen front lip
  • AE rear lip
  • Cefiro Power Folding Mirrors
  • BC Racing Coilovers
  • Full Debadge
  • New Paint Job
  • Douglas Sands 4″ intake
  • 560cc Injectors
  • NWP Block off plate
  • NWP 5pc spacer kit
  • Oil catch can
  • Lightweight crank pulley
  • Full Thomas Purdue headers with 3″ stainless steel exhaust
  • 3″ BRM muffler
  • Rear progress sway bar
  • Custommaxima strut bar
  • Redtop battery
  • 5pc Ground wire kit
  • Battery relocate
  • AE tailights
  • Blacked out headlights
  • Pioneer Double Din
  • Blue led cluster
  • Black carpet
  • 2 12″ subs in the truck
  • LED footwell lights
  • LED puddle lights under side skirts
  • Nissan seatbelt covers
  • Full LED interior lighting
  • Carpet redone in black
  • New work wheels coming!

my4dsc: 170


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my4dsc: 691